Anticipation of a Journey

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The mid-morning top-deck drop off. Excitement looms.

Leaving the post-snow, deep February cold of the early-morning curb, entering warm airport. Swaths of people cross our path, toting bags, checking in. Energy, pace and stress level picking up, heading to security checkpoint along with the masses.

The dance of piano keys, live music greeting on other side. Soothing for a busy airport, sending travelers to other cities, states and countries.

Pianist hands off to cellist further down the concourse. Local artist playing hand-made small cello he calls his travel version. Travelers dash by, heeding gate calls. As we plop our bags, look for outlets and settle into our boarding area we listen to his deep, soulful sounds filling the air, his bow mesmerizing as it effortlessly glides across the cello’s strings.

People filtering into gate waiting area, some with kids, retirees. All gathering in this spot – this waiting area – all of us with hopes of leaving dreary cloud-covered Portland for the sun-filled Big Island in the Hawaiian Island chain.

Hundreds of disparate lives coming together to be squeezed in a pressurized tube that will take us more than five hours and two thousand miles over the Pacific Ocean to our island destination – for sun, beach, R&R, away from to-do lists and daily responsibilities. To wear shorts, tank tops and sandals. Swimsuits and snorkel gear. For time to slow down. To wander. To explore.

Pilot strolls by, coffee in hand, heading to settle into cockpit, complete flight check. Woman walks by, tiny, shaggy black dog head popping out of dark bag.

Passenger list filled, we board and take our spaces for the next five hours, me in my favorite window seat with my partner taking it for the team in the middle seat. We hope for a nice seatmate – one that is friendly but doesn’t chat too much or take over the conversation. It can be a long, exhausting flight with the latter.

We luck out and become part of a female threesome, and post wheels-up share our travels and stories of places we’ve loved visiting. We even coordinate our bathroom run, all filtering back into our respective seats and high-fiving at the efficiency.

 30,000 feet up
There’s something about being 30,000 feet in the air that soothes me, plucks me out of my daily life to a place I can think, imagine. There’s less worry of daily life stress up here – it’s like we’re suspended above the clouds, above and beyond time.

I feel lucky to live I a time in history when an airplane is like a bus in the sky, taking you to the next city, the next state or other countries. Your cash is your ticket to the world, to experiences and discovery. New places, different languages and cultures.

This is what we work for, to be up here transiting at hundreds of miles per hour to a destination far from our home.

 

Reflections on New Zealand Journey

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It’s our last few hours in our campervan after a 10-day journey around New Zealand’s South Island. We only missed two sections – Marlborough – famous for its Sauvignon Blanc wines, Abel Tasman and Nelson Lakes National Parks; and the scenic East Coast with its famous Moeraki Boulders and sea life. I make notes for our next visit, which of course we’ll add to our always-growing travel list. Continue reading Reflections on New Zealand Journey

New Zealand’s Castle Hill

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After a quiet and restful night at Jackson’s Retreat, we’re nearly the last campervan to leave the holiday park this morning. It’s a bit sad, it’s our last campervan day in New Zealand’s South Island before we check in the van back in Christchurch and have our last night in the city.

But it’s another beautiful, sunny and hot day so we “break camp” as we call it and follow our host’s suggestion to hike Castle Hill –  a huge cluster of limestone rocks further down Arthur’s Pass toward Christchurch. If you’re a Lord of the Rings movie fan, you may recognize these as we did once we belatedly caught up on the trilogy. I’m pretty sure a trekking scene passed right through here – and we see why once we’re hiking among the giant boulders. There’s just something about being up close to such geologic magic – something that has been here for eons. I feel this way hiking in old-growth forests too – a sense of permanence. Continue reading New Zealand’s Castle Hill

New Zealand’s Arthur’s Pass

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It’s day 9 of our campervan trip on New Zealand’s South Island and today is our last 24 hours of our van journey. We’re leaving the teal blue Tasman Sea waters of the West Coast and headed inland, toward Arthur’s Pass National Park.

We backtrack from Punakaiki and the Pancake Rocks south to the turnoff in Kumara Junction and head into the mountains on highway 73. Like much of our trip, we could spend more days out here exploring the many hiking trails, many with above-treetop views of the snow-covered Southern Alps.

We opt for a fairly easy hike to a gorgeous waterfall, then head to Arthur’s Pass Village for a relaxing lunch and to try yet another New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc on a sunny restaurant deck. After, we try another short hike then head to our space for the night – Jackson’s Retreat Holiday Park.

The couple who runs the place toured the world by sailboat before buying and running the park, which sports a few cute ADU-type cabins, nicely-spaced plug-in campervan spots and open, grassy camping areas. Like the other holiday parks we’ve visited in New Zealand, it sports nice and clean shower facilities, a comfortable cooking and eating area and some supplies you’ll need on your journey far away from cities and stores. They even have a few glow worm dells you can visit at night and a hike to a waterfall.

Set on 15 acres in a soothing valley rainforest, with views of the Alps and Taramaku River, this was no doubt our favorite spot of the trip. And, we’ve got wine to finish off with our camper-cooked sunset dinner, so we enjoy the last evening with the campervan just hanging out in our little grassy area picnic table.

Lake Hawea to the West Coast

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We wake to yet another blue-sky day and are raring to go. On today’s drive is Southern Alps beauty. We’re on highway 6 heading toward Haast Pass. Mt. Aspiring National Park and South West New Zealand World Heritage Area is on our left and there are many places to stop and hike to gorgeous waterfalls and turquoise/teal rivers and pools.

We heard along our travels that the Blue Pools near Makarora are amazing so we’re hiking into them along with visitors from Germany, Canada and more. We get our first view of the pools and cross over the suspension bridge to a viewing platform, then to the water’s edge. It’s breathtaking.

Where we’re from, the Pacific Northwest, our glacial rivers are sometimes dark and murky coming right off the mountains. Most of the rivers coming off the New Zealand’s Southern Alps – at least in summer – are this beautiful teal color. 

But we have much more ground to cover today to make it half-way up the South Island’s West Coast, so we take in one more waterfall and pass by yet another teal river.

We continue our drive through tropical Hawaii-like Haast Pass and hit the coast at Knight’s Point.

It looks and feels like a Central to Southern California beach, a bit of a cool breeze hits our faces but blue sky abounds and ongoing series of Tasman Sea waves hit the beach.

From here, we know we could spend a few days exploring Fox and Franz Josef glaciers. We’re on the other side of Mt. Cook, where we visited earlier in our trip and sandwiched by two national parks – Mt. Cook and Westland Tai Poutini National Parks.

We make a note to spend at least a day or two here next trip and continue on, our goal for today is still about two hours up the coast, in Hokitika.

On the Road Again

Today we pull up stakes in Milford Sound and start the long drive back through Fjordland National Park, past New Zealand’s second largest lake and curving back east toward Far South.

Waiting at entrance of 1270 meter-long Homer Tunnel

There’s no other way (by car/van at least) than backtracking the way you came in but it’s gorgeous and we’re well rested after two rest nights plugged in at Milford Sound lodge’s campervan section.

Discussion of the morning is how nice our campervan facilities have been at the holiday parks we’ve visited. They are inexpensive (compared to a hotel/motel) and have clean showers/bathrooms, group cooking and eating areas and comfy lounge areas to use wireless, read or meet people from all over the world. Fantastic way to travel – we are new fans!

We could get used to this. Seeing beautiful scenery every day while driving to a new location. We’re stopping at pull-out after pull-out to take in a snow-covered mountain, a waterfall, a carved-out valley. I don’t think I can capture the beauty in words except to say that it’s awe-inspiring at nearly every turn.

I think that’s Mt. Tutoko, Fjordland’s highest peak, in background

I had intended to build in more “Freedom Camping” on this trip (if you have a bathroom and running water you are considered “self-contained” and approved for camping off the grid).

But I also knew we’d be traveling in New Zealand’s high season, learning along the way that kiwis take to the road right after Christmas – which is today – and we are already seeing more travelers on the road.

Not quite trusting, we opt to call ahead to Lake Hawea for a plug-in space and stop by Lake Wanaka for lunch and sauvignon blanc, which of course we’re also becoming fans!

Milford Sound

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It’s Christmas morning, and day 5 of our campervan adventure far from our Portland home. We’re now on the very Western edge of New Zealand’s South Island. It is as majestic as they say, and photos can’t capture all the pure natural beauty your eyes see.

I now have a new appreciation for waterfalls. And not your average waterfalls. It rained all night and into the morning as we donned our requisition where’s Waldo-striped long underwear and fleece, pulled over bright yellow rain jackets and tightened hoodies against the pelting rain.

A subtropical rainforest, Milford Sound gets a reported 3-9 meters of rain a year – and we were sitting in all that fresh water as we pushed our boats onto the Harrison Cove. All this top fresh water sits on top of ocean water coming in from the Tasman Sea way beyond where we’ll go today – at least in these boats.

The torrential rain has spawned all types of waterfalls raging down the sheer mountain walls – some a long single line following a crack the vertical length of the wall. Others a gusher that can’t wait to get to the sound below. Some look like flower dumped from up high, beads landing on outcrops, vegetation and then the pool below.

We feel spray and wind from one of the big ones and have to lean into the wind or be pushed over. These are just a few of hundreds in this sound, which is really a fjord since our guide tells us this area was in a U-shape from glaciers rather than rivers, which are cut into more of a V-shape. This is just one of 14 in Fjordland National Park.

Where it’s hard to see in the morning, an afternoon cruise takes us further out, past the same waterfalls of the a.m. but in the clearing sun they look different – less runoff but still majestic and unlike most Pacific Northwest waterfalls we’ve seen.

Boat captain takes us right under a waterfall

These are up close, enough to not just feel the spray, but nearly get blown over by it (AKA a “glacial facial” as they say).

In the sun, the sound looks like Tahiti or Kauai, where mountains jut straight up from the water and where the weather changes quickly. We are easily falling in love with this country and the immense, nearly untouched beauty and terrain we’ve seen over just the last few days.

Later, we are invited to a Kiwi Christmas dinner at the lodge and meet folks from the Bay Area, a suburb close to Portland, England, Australia, Singapore and much more. So nice to be outside the American culture for a bit.

Queenstown Play

Above Queenstown

Day 3 in the campervan and our drive takes us from the Alps to the Central Otago region. We’re headed to Queenstown, a total outdoor playground. We have one full day and two nights, so we plug in at a Holiday Park (Creeksyde) and jump in for tandem paragliding in the morning and gondola/luge in afternoon.

Queenstown is like Lake Tahoe meets a Colorado ski town – or maybe Boulder. There’s something for everyone – rafting, paragliding and parasailing, jetboats, skydiving, hiking and this new thing called Hydro Attack – it’s like an enclosed jet ski that can submerge up to 5 feet then shoot straight up in the air. If you can’t do G-forces, it won’t work for you because they aren’t kidding about the rocket piece we’re told.

If you’re not into the outdoor adventure Queenstown also offers a great downtown shopping district and excellent restaurant options on the wharf, and a fantastic garden walk to a point that gets you out onto the lake for a 180-degree view of the town and the Remarkables mountain range.

Paraglide morning

Enjoying the moment

The windy uphill road takes us to Cardrona ski area where we’ll jump off the cliff from Coronet Peak – or as my paraglide captain Hansel says “you run and we just take off.” It is just like that – all geared up we take a few jogs, the kite picks up air and we’re quickly off the cliff – just floating. It’s easy and peaceful being the passenger as his Go-Pro captures the scenery and my constant grin, the lush green and brown landscape below. He takes us along a cliff line and catches a thermal. I can hear other paragliders echo my woo-hoos as they follow similar line. Then there’s the corkscrew like moves that get us closer to our landing path lower on the mountain. I see now why my captain and many of his compatriots have come from all over the world to live here – to fly every day in this gorgeous valley, and from the highest commercial take off in Queenstown .

Gondola & Luge afternoon

Switching gears, if you go up the Gondola right from town, definitely try the luge course if you like to go fast. When I first heard the word, I thought we’d be literally doing the luge, but in summer with wheels. You actually sit up in a hard plastic cart and can turbo it up, especially on the red course after you’ve done your first orientation run on the easier blue course.

We instantly turned to kids who grew up loving to drive the cars on the rail course at Disneyland, then learned to alpine ski and instantly bombed the hill. Adrenaline kicks in, we gain courage and catch air the next run, up on two wheels around the sharp curves on the next. After 3 runs it’s growing hot on the course.

All the better to check out the Stratosphere restaurant and view. Paragliders jump from the mountain tip above us and pass by our window overlooking Queenstown. Lake Wakatipu, New Zealand’s third largest lake, glistens below. Boats look small. Two more luge runs and we’re done with our active day and head to dinner on the wharf (many good restaurants to choose from by the way.)

Christchurch: A City in Reinvention

Such a contrast – very old with earthquake retrofitted architecture. A city devastated by the 2011 earthquake rebuilding itself, determined to reinvent itself given the opportunity to rethink and recreate its City Center.

Vibrant public art dots sections of the city against construction cranes and rerouted pedestrian paths along the Avon River. Most touching – Solidarity Lamps – unique lamp posts sent from cities and countries around the world as a gesture of hope post earthquake. Seattle. Boston. Mexico City. Austria. Poland. China. They line the walkway along Hagley Park that I now view from our hotel.

Very walkable, Central City can be done easily in a day by jump on/off double-decker tour bus or take a map and point a direction by foot. On a grid, if you get lost or disoriented there’s always a friendly Kiwi to ask or a nice city guide.

A Day, and Counting in Transit

Bula!

We’re 24 hours in transit and counting after a 5-hour delay out of SFO last night. Caught a few winks on the plane, now a quick layover in Nadi, Fiji this morning has all already missing our direct flight to Christchurch, so now we’ll get to see Auckland first before heading south to Christchurch later tonight – oh and we’re a few days ahead of everyone back in Portland – we’ll catch back up to you on the way home for New Year’s! Internet running out, so more later as we land on the South Island and sleep off our jet lag and check out Christchurch.